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Author Topic: Help! Never been to Grand Ledge  (Read 1015 times)
gnque
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« on: May 05, 2010, 02:35:28 PM »

I'm from Colorado, in town for the weekend, never been to grand ledge (Hell, never been to Michigan).  What's the anchor situation here?  Are there duplicate bolts for all routes, or do I need to set my own anchors?  How far back from the edge are the anchors? 

Basically, I'm traveling light, so it would be great to figure out the minimum setup I need to set anchors here.  Would be great to avoid bringing a bunch of static / webbing that I don't need.  What do you all typically bring?

Thanks!
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admin
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« Reply #1 on: May 05, 2010, 02:47:27 PM »

- corrected -
Some of the routes have installed anchors. For the majority of routes, you will need to set up your own top rope anchors from the trees at the top of the cliff. Some of the anchor runs are set back a bit. Plan to bring plenty of webbing, locking carabiners, and carpet for padding. Often times there will be other people already set up on some routes. In which case, it is standard practice to share setups so feel free to ask. But, be careful to always inspect the setup before you climb. I have seen some scary anchor setups in the past...  Cheesy
« Last Edit: May 10, 2010, 09:57:18 PM by admin » Logged
spiderman
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« Reply #2 on: May 10, 2010, 07:35:01 PM »

there is four sets of metal anchors for webbing at the ledges. the climbs you can do with them include

dougs roof 5.10, intimidator 5.11, another mother 5.11/up yours 5.11/second thoughts 5.8/jays overhang 5.10

potato chips 5.7, breakeater 5.9,  one for the road 5.9

rated x 5.11

three mules 5.8, intergalactic qualude trip, 5.9 the pretzl 5.10, (hung to the other side of the arete) enigma 5.13, enigmas heart 5.12, heart and sole 5.13, & handjob 5.10

sometimes people do cowabunga with the dougs roof set up and traverse left at the top, its not too bad. 
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waxxo
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« Reply #3 on: May 19, 2010, 09:25:43 AM »

I don't suppose anyone could post a picture of a typical tree slung top rope setup. I am going to be visiting Grand Ledge in July from Tucson and am an ignorant sport climber with no experience in setting up top rope on anything other than cold shuts and chains. Also, is there a place near by to buy gear for a top rope setup?
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sharma420
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« Reply #4 on: May 19, 2010, 09:56:24 AM »

There are no real stores nearby, Moosejaw Mountaineering is 25 minutes away.  You need as much gear as ropes you plan to toss.  Webbing usually does the job.  The most popular climbs have relatively short distances between the anchor and lip.  All you do is connect the webbing ends with a water know, ie retrace overhand, and girth hitch it around a tree.  Repeat process on another tree.  Use 2 caribineers to connect webbings and drop rope.  You MUST use carpet on the lip of the edge to protect the rock.  You can turn the webbing around the base of the tree to shorten it...retying takes forever and wnot make it exact anyway.  You can also just use other peoples ropes.
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